Sunday, January 10, 2010

Maximum city

On this Sunday morning, while packing for my India visit, my mind invariably turned to the memories of time spent in Bombay. Mumbai, still lovingly called Bombay, the first picture that comes to mind is that of Nariman point and the queen's necklace on a busy weeknight. The maximum city, the city of extremes. City that breathes and accepts you the way you are. A city you either adore or hate it with all you have. You will never hear 'Bombay is an alright city to live in'.
My love for Bombay has grown over the years, almost like the city grew on me. Changing me at times, making me a different person and at other times reminding me of who I was and where I came from. I do not 'originally' belong to Bombay. The word original has a very significant meaning when talking about one's roots in India. I come from a different part of the country, having spent relatively less time in Bombay, but I like to think that's where I belong, because truly there is no other place I could ever belong to. It's like the city complements my personality and lets me blend in.
Coming from a small city, I was terrified when I was told I would be going to Bombay. A city of 14 million people, it's a crazy place at any given time. On top of that I was going to be all alone in the city, living on my own. How was I going to manage? How would I ever be able to find my way through? And more thoughts like those were making a dash in my head. The first few days, I hated the city. I could not grasp why were there so many people there. Where was everyone going and why could it not be less humid. The day I was driven from Andheri west to Nerul( where my college was), and we went over the Vashi bridge, I could smell the sea. My senses came alive. Everything around me was green and cool and that smell! And my college was some view. A picturesque setting, right off the highway. It had rained that day and the hills just behind the college were lush green with little streams running downhill. And I was in love. I did not realize it then ofcourse. The days to come were going to be trying.
Anyone who has lived in Bombay, will know the true meaning of survival of the fittest. From the richest to the poorest, everyone is trying to capture the one thing that is scarce, space. There are few schools, too many students, there are few jobs, too many graduates, so on an so forth. Someone once told me, you can never be out of job in Bombay. You'll find something to do. I am not so sure. The local trains, they are called the lifeline of the city, and rightly so. The traffic in the city is so bad, that people prefer the overcrowded trains. And riding the train is a skill you have to learn. You need to know how to place yourself strategically when the train approaches, so you can push you way in. Once inside, you can let go of any ideas you may have had with respect to cleanliness or hygiene. You will never get so close to anyone unless you are making love( which by the way is not so easy to do in Bombay without your neighbors taking a peek), as you would in that train. On a hot stuffy day, you can smell every unimaginable human odour there is. And then getting off takes an additional set of skills. Rest assured, come sun or rain, you will reach your destination on time.
Most people spend their time devising plots to beat the rush hour traffic, only to realize 'rush hour' is a myth in Bombay. Every hour is a rush hour. You can be in a traffic jam at 3 in the morning.
So why do I love the place with so many people, so much traffic, a city that never pampers you, is so damn hot, doesnt care, is arrogant, expensive to live in, even dangerous for the less smart? Because this is the only place where I can get anda bhurji at 2 in the morning, where I can drive by Nariman point, listening to Hall and Oates and the waves in the sea at the same time. It's the only place where you can crib all day and then forget it all at Toto's over a couple of beers with some amazing people in your life. A place where you choose your sound at Cafe Mondegar, downtown and then catch a late night show at the sterling theatre. After a late night of hard core partying, I can rediscover myself just by driving on the palm beach road. Gossip over coffee at Barista after dinner. Just sit outside The Taj and admire it, wishing I could go inside and spare Rs 300 for a cup of coffee. Shop at shoppers, eat a dosa at shiv sagar and then head to cafe mocha for some flavored hookah, watch the sky change colors, the different shades of black. The only place where the sun shines and it rains at the same time. the only place I don't mind getting wet in the rain. And there are countless reasons to love Bombay.
This is a city that never sleeps. It's been awake for a long time now.Allows you to sleep a good night's sleep, and sometimes you toss and turn in bed, you want to get out this place, because you cant take it no more, and yet you know there is no place you can turn to. There is no way out. Like the song " You can check out anytime you like, but you can never leave".. It sticks to you and then you realize, you are almost glad that it does.

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